Hey outdoor fans!
To get right swell for a great surfing, learn to read a forecast.
First off all, let's cover the basics. Think of this as your Bachelor in Understanding The Surf Forecast degree. For your degree, these four variables are the basics: swell, swell height, period, direction and energy:
- Swell is a collection of waves generated by specific conditions like a storm. Swell can travel a long way to the beach like 2000 miles offshore.
- Swell height is measured from the base of the wave to the top of the wave. Generally, this parameter gives you a picture of the average height of the possible waves.
- Swell period is measured often from one peak to another peak. Correlates in how much energy there is in a swell.
- Swell direction is a direction from which the swell is coming.
- Swell energy is a combination of both wave size and period. It indicates the power of the predicted waves and can be the most useful guide to how powerful the surf is likely to be.